With so much marketing hype in the beauty industry it’s hard to know what products and treatments work and are beneficial for our skin. Whether or not we should be exfoliating is something we’ve been unsure about, so we talked to Renay Robertson, founder of Haven Skin Spa to clear up any confusion around exfoliation.
Channel Magazine: Should we exfoliate and if so, why?
Renay Robertson: Yes, but you must never over exfoliate. We need to exfoliate because our skin’s natural shedding process, known as desquamation, allows fresh new skin cells to come to the surface to give you that soft feeling and bright appearance.
However, as we age this process slows down resulting in a build-up of thickened skin, clogged pores, uneven skin tone and essentially a dull and lack lustre complexion. To overcome this, we need to exfoliate to remove the dead skin cells that have clung to the skin’s surface instead of shedding away. Exfoliating, when done in a controlled way, is simply giving our natural desquamation process a helping hand.
CM: Microdermabrasion and peels are forms of exfoliation. What is the difference?
RR: Microdermabrasion is a manual exfoliation the removes dead skin cells, debris and impurities. It combines suction and a wand with a diamond head to remove dead skin cells, debris and impurities from the skin’s epidermis. Microdermabrasion treatments produce instant results and stimulate collagen production and a more rapid cell turnover.
Chemical Peels are a liquid exfoliant that use ingredients that break down the “glue” that is holding the dead skin cells together. There are lots of different types of peels available but the most common kind contain AHAs and BHAs, which work like little Pacmen to gobble up debris.
CM: What type of skin are peels good for?
RR: There are lots of different peels available so there is a peel to suit almost everyone. For example, our ClearAway peel incorporates mandelic which is derived from bitter almonds. The ClearAway peel decongests and helps to control oil production so is effective in treating a congested, oily skin that might be prone to a bit of acne.
Peels can be tailored to a client’s individual needs to treat skin concerns such as dehydration, fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation and sun damage, inflammation, oiliness and congestion.
CM: What type of skin are microdermabrasion treatments good for?
RR: Microdermabrasion is generally better suited to treat congestion, enlarged pores and skin with a rough or uneven texture. It’s not well suited for those with sensitive or rosacea skin.
A light microdermabrasion is often done before another rejuvenation treatment, such as a peel, to enable optimal product penetration and maximum benefit.
CM: How often should one get an exfoliation treatment?
RR: There are lots of factors that determine the frequency of a treatment but generally speaking, monthly treatments will help you achieve a long term improvement in the health of your skin. An important thing to remember is that one-off treatments will not give you a lasting result.
You will definitely notice a difference after one treatment but for a long-lasting improvement a course of 4-6 treatments is recommended. Doing a a one-off treatment is a bit like going to the gym once and expecting to be fit.
CM: Is there anything that I should be aware of when using exfoliants at home or getting an exfoliation treatment?
RR: Exfoliation products and treatments should never be aggressive, as this can thin the skin (which accelerates ageing) and compromises the skin’s natural lipid barrier which leads to redness, tightness and irritations.
For those of us who remember, the 90s and early 2000s was all about uncomfortable aggressive peeling techniques which unfortunately caused a lot of damage to skin. There was a lot of downtime for clients with shedding that often lasted more than a week. Aggressive exfoliation techniques like this are a no-no at Haven; our exfoliation treatments are designed to work with your skin’s natural processes – not override it.
CM: Recommended products to follow up with?
RR: You must be very diligent in using a sunscreen after a peel or microdermabrasion. Your fresh new skin has just been exposed so it is really important the you protect and keep it looking better for longer. Our favourite sunscreen is Ultraceuticals Protective Daily Moisturiser SPF50+ which is non-greasy SPF moisturiser containing an anti-ageing complex with a shine-free finish.
Renay’s exfoliating tips
Haven Skin Spa
Ground Floor, Partner’s Life Building, 33-45 Hurstmere Road, Takapuna (Between The Commons and Studio Pilates)
www.havenskinspa.com takapuna@havenskinspa.com 486 6224
